A few days in La Rochelle

Another trip to France, this time by train rather than ferry. Eurostar are still not taking full size bikes so folding bikes only! Train to St Pancras go to the lower level and check in to Eurostar. Our train was on time but the previous Paris service was delayed and with a Brussels service departing about the same time the waiting area is packed but before too long we are called up to our train.

The way out was a bit of a luxury because we’d managed to get a ‘Standard Premier’ for £5 more than the ‘standard’ class which meant free drinks and a meal served at our seats. A last minute change of train by Eurostar found us sat in the Business Premier coach too.

On time we arrived sat the Gare du Nord, bikes unfolded and we set off to cycle to Gare Montparnasse on the south side of Paris. There are lots of people cycling, escootering and skateboarding so it can be rather chaotic. Some of the cycle lanes are really narrow too but we are soon cycling along the Seine embankment. Previously a traffic choked road its now traffic free and everyone is wizzing along! The smell of vehicles still lingers in the tunnels though! After crossing the river we were soon at the station for our TGV to La Rochelle. €27 each for a 3 hour journey in 1st class.

We had two cycle trips planned, one taking a ferry to the Ile de Re and cycling back, the other going south to Rochefort to ride on the transporter bridge which has just been refurbished after being closed for four years.

We’ve cycled on the Ile de Re before and its really easy with lots of signposted routes on cycle paths and quiet roads and lots and lots of people cycling. The ferry from La Rochelle left early so we set off from St Martin de Re at around 9.00am and took a roundabout route stopping to buy some sea salt and coffee and cake before cycling back over the huge bridge to the mainland.

The other trip took us south along Eurovelo route 1 more or less following the coast on cycle paths until turning inland and using the old main road now by-passed with a dual carriageway. Hardly any cars on it but lots of touring cyclists.

So that we could use the transporter bridge we crossed the river on a small ferry just for bikes and pedestrians and cycled up to the bridge. Once across a short ride into Rochefort and caught a local train back.

The trip back by train was uneventful, both ways taking 12 hours with fairly generous stops in Paris.Crossing Paris by bike on the way back we took a circuitous route stopping at Brompton Junction on the Rue de Rivoli, now just one lane of cars with three lanes for bikes until Place de la Concorde where everyone mixes together seemingly relatively safely until gaining the segregated cycle lane up the Champs Elysee. After that we cycled back across to the Gare du Nord mixing with traffic, bikes, scooters and all fairly chaotic but good fun!